All the newer nhra/edelbrock replacement heads are aluminum and too pretty looking to look original on our old cars. OH well..
Ryan

Hey Ryan, lets put some aftermarket heads on the cars and a plate nitrous system, leave the exhaust manifolds and tires on and see who can run an 8? We could call it PRO MOD appearing.

Hey i like that idea..
at least i know i wouldnt break my heads!!.
Stock intake and No junk in the trunk rule still must apply ok?
theres a stock 163 intake on ebay modified for a dominator...can i run that in pro mod appearing?
Ryan

Yes, as for junk in the trunk, a box or two of DEPENDS undergarments would probably come in handy at the big end!

Ed, are you in favor of or against a relaxation of the head rule?
We know you have spent alot of time and money, as have others, to do what you do. I think it would make it easier and less expensive for all and not necessarily change the perf. advantage that is already inherent to each marque.
seems as though the chevy camp is in favor of change, as andrew, ryan, and ken have expressed.i just want what the majority feels is fair!
i would like to hear more from olds, pontiac, ford, guys

How does this sound-

Chevrolet Big Block 396 1968 thru 1970 castings

Chevrolet Small Block (No Issue)

Chrysler Small Block X and J Castings

Chrysler Big Block 1968 thru 1974 heads

Pontiac non ram air 1967 thru 1971

Oldsmobile 1967 thru 1971 400-455 non W-30 castings

Ford, Help needed Mike, Steve, Lane and any other Ford Guru chime in. ( I am also looking for a solution)

Buick 1967 to 1970 400 casting heads.

Chevrolet Big Block 396 1968 thru 1970 castings


1968 thru 1973 castings. Would be be better. Basically if you are building a BBC you are going to use Rect Port heads and those years give a few more choices.

Ryan found me a few sets of 840s The cheapest but still usable was 1000.00 up to 2500.00 and oh ya thats each

You Bowtie guys can't be serious. You already have an advantage with aluminum heads, and you want better heads? If you choose to run them, then its your choice to spend the money to have them welded to live. I have spent more than $6000.00 on one pair of iron scj heads and now there junk. I'm on my second set and thats my choice. If the aluminum is cost prohibative, then build an iron head motor. If your choosen combo is a one year only head, choose a new combo or live with what you have. It sounds to me like your not happy with your chosen performance advantage and you want more. If Supercars chooses to modify the current rules to assist one group of racers, then the series looses some of its integrity. If you want to modify the rules to allow non correct heads, then why is the tire tread rule soooo important??? Either the cars are correct or their not. If you want to allow the aluminum heads, then I expect you will allow every car to run aluminum heads. Everyone should get the same advantage! A cnc can make any head appear correct externally.

so lane what your saying is the guy who runs out of money last wins?

thats ridiculous!

re-read the posts...they are looking for cost effective, reliable, options, not performance gains, and not just for them but everyone!

you said it yourself, 6000.00 in parts down the drain

this will help the class grow, not make it loose its integrity because it would be apart of the rules, and the cars would still look stock.

I've been sitting back watching this play out...
My vote is to keep things pretty much status quo.
I think that the guys running slower ETs should be given more leeway with acceptable cylinder heads. These are guys with existing cars that more or less fit the class or guys with a limited budget. As I understand it, the way the rules are written, these guys can run heads that are technically not legal for a given combo but no one will bust them on it since they run less than 11.70. This is good since many guys in this group wouldn't step up and spend the money for little to no performance improvement.

Once you reach a certain performance level though, 11.70 as it stands now, you've pretty well established that you're willing to spend the time and money to go fast. As such I think that once you reach that level you need to make sure that the combo you've put together is correct for the model claimed. I think that switching heads to one that won't break at a certain level of performance (durability) is the same as switching to one that will allow a certain level of performance (head flow). Either way you'd be running an incorrect head to be able to run at that level.

We are not looking to make aftermarket aluminum heads legal. We are looking to see if, certain cast iron heads, from each brand can be substituded if the racer choses to go that route. If it's feasible and gives the racers a chance to come out and race, then mision accomplished.

Every Marque has a commen factory cast iron head that was used on many applications from truck, industrial use to car. If the racer is able to use a factory cast iron head that is easier find and has no added performance advantage. Why not? If it increases the chance of you saving thousands of dollars trying to find a set of correct swap meet quality junk one year cast heads, then why not? Again no performance advantage.

I have two great example-

#1 Ed Cook is building a 1963 Plymouth. Correct factory cast iron heads would be optimum and give him the greatest perfomance advantage. But if he was allowed to run a Factory Cast Iron 1968 to 1970 "906 Head" he would be able to finish his build and be out there racing.

#2 Don Giannone 1966 Chevelle. Same deal as Ed, one year only expensive swap meet quality junk. If Don was allowed to run a 1968 to 1973 396 cast iron head he would be out there racing.

This is what we are talking about. Do you guys have an issue with this?

Ryan, (as Ed and Don have done) is venting is fustration with hunting down and buying swap meet qaulity junk parts and trying to make them into prime pieces. We are / or have all done this at one point in our build. (I took a look at the heads for the Demon today, and they have 8 healy coils in them .)

Note; So this does not get out of hand, we are not talking about any other peice of the drivetrain only using "factory cast iron heads".

Lane can you give me some numbers, years of factory cast iron heads for ford, small and big block that fit the criteria..

You are correct Jeremy.

Remember, no certification will be handed out, unless the parts are correct for the model even if you run slower than 11.70.

Our combo is an IRON HEAD 427BBC. Unfortunately changing to a different head also means building a new car. And thats not happening. THE OTHER HEADS AREN'T BETTER THERE IS JUST MORE OF THEM AVAILABLE. But then we all could choose a BBF that allows for a bigger cubic inch, tell me that isn't an advantage? HEY, LETS PUT A CUBIC INCH LIMIT, WHILE WE ARE AT IT... and what do tires have to do with cylinder heads. Bald tires can be seen by anyone from the outside of the car. A cylinder head casting number is the the only way to tell the difference between the heads.


DON'T CHANGE THE RULE, WE WILL MAKE OUT JUST FINE, THANKS.

I do... see the last two sentences of my post above.