Starting to open

Fully open

That is pretty cool. I would never of thought that it would open up so fast plus neat idea on rigging it up to time it

After searching for the source of my upper rpm flutter, I believe there is progress, looking at the burn pattern on the distributor cap I notice that it was on the horizontal part of the terminal just barely on the inside edge. Like the rotor was high and the path of less resistance was up instead of out towards the vertical surface of the terminal. It seemed the rotor was long long enough leaving a large gap between the rotot tip and the terminal. So as a test I filed the rotor so it would sit lower. Made three runs and no flutter and the burn marks are on the vertical surface now. Also while I was in there I wanted to check the rotor phasing. If you search for MSD rotor phasing video. The before is exactly what mine looked like at idle it was just pass the center of the terminal and at 3500 you could barely see the rotor through the hole and the arc was long thin and inconsistent. Fixed that through using the vac advance mechanism which moves the magnetic trigger to advance timing. Drilled a hole and a small screw presto! Rotor at idle just before center and ends up.ittle past the center.

Link to the MSD video
https://youtu.be/aWMlNwGW0tM

Bad seal! It's tough to get seals to behave! This is the rear clutch piston seal.

youve been beating their baby seals for fun for years.

bill

It's back together and working fine. So at 12:30 wed
As I pulled the new kick down band out of the box and argggg! it's another low reverse band!!!!! wait a minute! I'm not a moron! No I just ordered a solid kick down instead of the flex band. Doh!!. Seems to shift quicker. So in my liesure time.

Mid body work.

One more

I used the plastic wrap that is supposed to be designed for painting. It's supposed to not allow overspray to blow off, not true. You should still use paper then plastic.

After cut and buff.

All done.

Hydra mat installed.