Drag Race Suspensions:

Ever have handling issues with your car? Most times it can be attributed to a poor suspension. Either worn components or improper set up or improper components. The most notable issue that come to mind is excessive ballast. While drag cars use ballast all the time, too much in the wrong place is dangerous. The best example of too much would be a pickup truck loaded with gravel. The front end way up at the end of its travel making the steering light and if you can imagine trying to drive that combination at over 100mph the aerodynamics come into play. The rear suspension is at or near full compression exaggerating the situation.

A typical production car has Anti Squat. That is some that is not dictated by the emblems on the car but rather the design of all solid axle american musclecars. If the car isn't lifting the front and rear it is not planting the tires effectively. The misconception of using excessive ballast to gain traction is common and should be avoided. Having the suspension working as it was designed to at the starting line will improve the way it works as the car increases speed down the track.

Remember safety is more important than speed.

Hi Andrew any ideas on the type of rear springs to use on a gm"a" body '71 stick car. Thanks Mike. Do you make or sell them?

What should a new racer do when setting up a car for the class. What are the key areas to focus on.

For starters, these are race cars. Regardless of ET, a complete inspection of the car must be done. Look for worn or damaged components along with checking the car's structural integrity.

Set an ET goal that is reasonable both financially and capable with your choice of car.

My HP2 is fighting me . The leafs are a set of original Hemi springs with new solid bushings upfornt and rubber bushings in the rear. The HP2's body is very rigid. What areas would I need to focus on even more to help the HP2's first 300 FT on the track. (I blow off the tires for the first 300 FT.)

great thread!!!! looks like the camaro is gonna hopefully be a mid to high 12 second car. seein as this type of racing isnt puttin a ton of adjustable suspension parts, and big slicks on the car, ill be following intently!!!

Mike Stock rear springs will get the job done. As long as they aren't too soft and they give your car the correct ride height. Stay away from " cargo coils" or stationwagon coils to raise the rear. They are too stiff.

Billy, I know you are waiting for the Pure Stock rules to come out to decide on your direction. The nice thing about this is as for rear springs your options are the same. Its the details that make the car hook.

Has your engine builder given you an idea as far as HP with your current parts?

Ralph the springs are part of the problem. Shock length is also an issue. Do you use a pinion snubber? PIX please.

he hasnt said yet. we are still up in the air for a motor, will either be a 396 or a 496 im really tryin to put a 396 in the camaro, and something a bit bigger in the nova. the camaro is gonna see alot of street miles so ill have to make some considerations for that i guess.

Imparial rear shock, No pinion snubber and 2Degrees of Pinion angle. Springs are clamped upfront,

Good morning, why is it dangerous to drive a car on the street with 90/10 adjustable shocks in the front? The manufactorer says not to it as it's very dangerous but after driving I don't see why I couldn't???

Thanks, Juan.

Juan, it's not that street driving a car with drag shocks on it is inherently dangerous, it just won't handle in the way that a normal street car will. If you are familiar with the cars handling characteristics and drive accordingly, you'll be just fine. The warning has as much to do with the company limiting their liability as anything else.

Thanks Jeremy. The old shocks were so shot that I may as well had nothing so I can't compare the way the car handles now to the old ones but it drives fine. I take it easy on the street and have a little fun on the track from time to time.

Thanks, Juan.

For rear coil spring car like my Chevelle, No-hop bars will modify the pinion angle which will need to be re-adjusted to avoid driveline vibration and to maintain the proper opposing angles for the U-joint life and minimizing friction.

The rules state that factory (non-adjustable) upper arms need to be used, but no-hops are allowed. I can think of a few ways to re-adjust the pinion angle, but they are not practical with the exception of adjustable upper control arms. Is there a way around this or can this be a rule change?

Thanks

Tom